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Soil Testing for Beginners

Are you planning to fertilize your lawn this year? How much and what type of formulation should you use? Is the soil pH in your garden a proper level for growing what you want to grow? If you plan to amend your soil, how do you know what to add?

These questions can be answered by doing a soil test. A soil test will indicate the nutrient levels already present in your lawn so you will know how much and what types of fertilizers are needed.

For every Saturday in April between 9am and 3pm, Master Gardeners from the Washtenaw Country Extension Program will be on site at five locations to accept your prepared soil sample. These five sites include Downtown Home and Garden, Ace Barnes Hardware on Stadium, Dexter Mill, Chelsea Farmers Supply, and Saline Town and Country. The cost is $15 per soil sample.

Preparing a soil sample for testing takes just a little planning.

  • Start with a clean plastic pail and a trowel or spade.
  • From the area in which you plan to plant, take 10 samples of about ½ cup from random spots of one type of landscape, such as lawn, flower garden, or vegetable garden. Take soil from 3” below the turf for lawn and 7” deep for flowers and vegetables. Remove roots and other plant material.
  • Put all of the soil into the bucket and mix together.
  • Then put 1 – 2 cups of soil in a ziploc bag and bring it to one of the locations above. Master Gardeners will label your sample for testing, and you will receive the results by mail or email in time for planting season.
  • Damp soil is acceptable, but if it’s very wet, spread it out on a newspaper layer to dry it. If you want to prepare several samples such as front yard and backyard or vegetable garden and fruit trees, sample those areas separately and label them.

    Soil testing will help you determine how much and what type of fertilizer is need for the plants that you want to grow. Using the right amount of fertilizers is important because over application of fertilizers can pollute water resources, damage plants, and waste money.

    Soil testing is also available year-round from the Washtenaw County Extension Office. Participating now will save you a little money on the mailing cost and help you begin to plan for the gardening season.

    Posted in • Growing.

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    Cold Frame 20 years in the Making

    Cold frames extend the growing season which is handy in a climate like southeastern Michigan. We’ve employed a variety of season extenders in our gardens over the years, from modest juice-jar cloches to a sandbox turned nursery bed with some clear plastic. For quite awhile, however, I’ve wanted a real cold frame with a sturdy wooden box and glazing made from a true glass window.

    For how long? I scavenged the window two decades ago. A couple 4 x 4’s came from a student loft– a student who must have graduated in the mid-90’s. A few nicely sized pieces of 1” plywood became available last fall when we demolished some shelves. I have a box of hinges and handles that came from some hardware close-out along the line. But the parts would never have come together if not for that early season gardener’s itch. The soil’s too wet to till but the weather is too glorious to stay cooped up. Building a cold frame is the next best thing to gardening.

    The key dimensions all came from the window so I’m not including measurements in these instructions. Construction should be easy enough to figure out from the pictures. Yes, yes, yes, of course, there’s a “correct” angle for a cold frame so that it catches the mathematically optimal amount of sunlight. But then, there is also the best angle possible for this particular window frame and this particular board. I figured that the spring sun is still relatively low in the sky and adjusted my angles accordingly.

    I’m wary of pressure treated lumber in yard projects, but I didn’t want the cold frame to rot out quickly. My compromise was to apply a coat of stain or primer to any raw wood. Stain and primer both sink in better than a simple coat of paint. I haven’t heard anyone suggest this idea but I thought if I painted the inside of the cold frame white, the light might bounce around a bit.

    Many jokes have been made about how every problem resembles a nail when the only tool at your disposal is a hammer. That folksy wisdom aside, I surely have found a lot of problems that are resolved by 4″ lag screws. I keep a box on my tool shelf, and they were the fastener of choice on this project. I must confess that I purchased 16 2″ washers from the kind folks at Stadium Hardware. The total for the washers was $3.20. Everything else was scavaged, which brings the total cost of the project to $3.20.

    We’re so pleased with this cold frame that we hope to make at least one additional cold frame very similar to it. Our first cold frame is settled on what we call the lettuce bed where it provides access to the sun, encouraging the tiny seeds to germinate, as well as protection from the harsher early spring elements.

    Posted in • Making.

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    Ordering New Apple Trees

    This week we ordered a couple new fruit trees for the 20minutegarden — I just love garden work I can do while wearing slippers and sipping a cup of tea. We have been working slowly and steadily to build a small scale urban orchard for several years. This year it was time to add a couple more trees now that we’re pretty comfortable with the overall shape of the garden. Our first advice is to carefully observe your yard and don’t rush into things. It’s far easier to transplant a rogue perennial than a mis-planted apple tree.

    Our selection process focused on choosing the best kind of tree for us and deciding on the optimal spots in the yard. And it went without saying that we’d buy good stock from a reputable dealer. A tree will be a feature of our yard –and nearly a member of our family– for decades so it didn’t make sense to save a few bucks for a short-sighted bargain. We have had good luck with Trees of Antiquity; their catalog and website provide the right information for making decisions about fruit trees for the home orchard.

    We’ve been scoping out spots for a couple years now. Your yard of course will have different considerations, but we tried to consider the effect of the trees’ roots, branches and leaves. As far as roots, we didn’t want to plant TOO closely to the foundation of either the house or the barn (foundations can alter the pH of the soil too). Similar concern for the branches since our first tree regularly sends out its loving arms toward the side of the barn. The effect of the leaves had two kinds of concern. First we wanted a spot where the leaves would get as much direct sunlight as possible; in particular, we tried to avoid structural shade caused by neighboring buildings. The other concern was what kind of shade the trees would cast at their prime. I don’t want shadows. Since I am a somewhat lazy gardener, I would prefer that as many of the leaves as possible fall right on top of the beds where I am going to rake them anyway. We knew this year that we could add two more trees.

    We already have a Roxbury Russet apple that predates the construction of the barn. We selected that tree because it was one variety that was somewhat difficult to find at the Ann Arbor Farmers’ Market (though Wasem‘s usually has them in the late fall, unless they sell out.) It’s also an heirloom variety that we absolutely love to eat.

    But apple trees like companionship so we ordered two other trees that

    1) will bloom at the same time of the season, in this case, late
    2) will thrive in our climate zone. It’s possible to coddle and coax a creature to grow outside of their home climate, but even when they live, I sense their hearts are pining for elsewhere.

    We wanted semi-dwarf stock so that the tree will be more compact that a full-sized apple tree. We had enough room that we didn’t want to go with a dwarf stock that would always require staking.

    We decided to order a Hauer Pippin tree and a Newtown Pippin tree. Both are hardy for our zone and will bloom late in the season along with our Roxbury Russet.

    If you are thinking of adding apple trees or other fruit to your garden, take these ideas into account:
    * Give yourself time to plan. You may be able to purchase a tree for this year (although some varieties will already be sold out), but one season does not make that much difference. Instead, take a year to monitor and observe your yard. Study the sun patterns to see how many hours your yard actually gets and where.
    * Take time to learn. Read up on your chosen fruit trees so you know what to expect in terms of time to fruiting, pollination requirements, tree size, pruning, and pest control. If your selection isn’t self-pollinating (and many fruit trees are not), you will want to plant another one, unless you or a nearby neighbor already have a compatible variety growing.
    * Shop with a reputable nursery. Cheap isn’t best with fruit stock. Find a nursery here or online that will teach you about your options so you can make a smart decision.
    * Plant it right. We’ll have tips and photos on planting when we get to that step.
    * Cultivate patience. Planting a fruit tree isn’t a quick road to home-made fruit pie. It’s an opportunity to think about the long haul and the future.

    Martin Luther was quoted as saying, “Even if I knew the world would end tomorrow, I would still plant a tree today.” Even if you can’t imagine living in your present house in ten years from now, someone will. Consider planting a fruit tree for them.

    Posted in • Growing.

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    House plants inventory: Indoor gardening for Clean Air

    African Violets in better days-- Historical photo

    People grow house plants for many reasons. Plants add color, beauty, and interest to home and offices. Just looking around those spaces — and gardening centers!– reveals that growing plants is an activity that many enjoy. In a recent Master Gardener class, I was reminded of another fascinating fact to keep in mind about indoor gardening: house plants clean the air.

    The contribution of house plants for cleaning indoor air was explored in the landmark 1989 NASA Clean Air Study, a collaboration between NASA and the Associated Landscape Contractors of America. Most of us are well aware of the fact that plants absorb carbon dioxide and release oxygen, which forms a symbiotic relationship with humans since our breathing does the opposite. The NASA Clean Air Study found that plants also eliminate significant amounts of benzene, formaldehyde and trichloroethylene from the air. This two-year study suggested that plants might provide a natural way for dealing with “sick building syndrome.” Some of the most effective plants included English Ivy (Hedera helix), Spider plant (Chlorophytum comosum), Peace Lily (Spathiphyllum ‘Mauna Loa’), Chinese Evergreen (Aglaonema modestum), Bamboo Palm (Chamaedorea seifritzii), Snake plant (Sansevieria laurentii), Heartleaf philodendron (Philodendron oxycardium,) and several plants in the Dracaena family, including Janet Craig, Marginata, and Mass cane/Corn Plant. Pot Mum (Chrysantheium morifolium) and Gerbera Daisy (Gerbera jamesonii) were also found to be effective air cleaning plants. Further details about individual plants’ specific toxic removal qualities can be found here. The study concluded with the suggestion that 15 – 18 house plants in 6-8 inch container sizes would improve the air quality in an average 1,800 square foot home.

    Ironically, our house plant population is at an all-time low. A quick inventory reveals one huge Norfolk Island Pine and several offspring in a big pot (which must be re-potted this spring!), two African violets (one thriving, one surviving), one pot of thyme on the rebound from a near-death experience, and one cup with basil seeds germinating on the windowsill. That’s a grand total of 5 indoor plants– a far cry from the 15-18 needed to filter our indoor air effectively. I’ll be making a concerted effort to expand our indoor plants. Any suggestions?

    How many house plants share your home? Does knowing that house plant can improve indoor air quality motivate you to grow them? What plants have you grown successfully? What are your reasons for gardening indoors?

    Posted in • Growing.

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    Anxious to get growing? Try sprouting!


    Are you itching to get out in the garden and grow something? Are you plotting and dreaming as you watch the snow and ice melt– and then magically re-appear? If you are an experienced gardener, you know in your heart of hearts that it’ll be weeks before the ground is warm and dry enough to do anything with. If you are a garden newbie, just trust me– your digging days are still in the future!

    What’s a cooped-up gardener to do? Sprout something tasty! Sprouting seeds, in this case, mung beans is easy, fun, and nutritious as well as speedy. Sprouting seeds is also a simple and amazing activity to do with children– a science lesson that ends with a meal. Little ones might be more interested in trying or eating something that they helped grow. Start some sprouts today and you’ll be eating them in a week!

    Here are some tips for getting started. Our very easy and flexible recipe for Egg Foo Young follows.

    The equipment requirements are very simple. You’ll need a wide-mouth quart-size canning jar. Another clean jar with straight sides would work as well. You’ll need a ring that fits the top, which is why a canning jar and ring works nicely. You’ll also need a piece of cheese cloth or other thin woven cloth fits inside the ring. A couple of years ago, I bought a nifty little round piece of screen that works well in place of the cheese cloth at the People’s Food Co-op. Finally, you’ll need a tablespoon of mung beans, which I buy in bulk from the People’s Food Co-op again, but is probably available in grocery stores and bulk food stores.

    To get started, put the mung beans in the jar, cover with the cheese cloth and twist on the ring. Rinse the seeds thoroughly with cool water. Drain them well. And set them aside for 8 to 12 hours. Repeat the rinsing and draining process. That’s pretty much all you need to do. The indirect light of a kitchen window provides enough sunshine for the soon-growing seeds. Avoid placing the jar in direct sunlight as that will dry out the sprouts too quickly. Small sprouts will emerge usually within 24 hours. We usually let ours grow for 6 to 8 days in order to fill the jar and generate enough sprouts for a delicious meal of Egg Foo Young.

    Egg Foo Young

    Ingredients:
    1 large onion, sliced
    2 cups of fresh mung bean sprouts
    1 tsp salt
    1 cups of egg whites and 3 whole eggs, well-beaten ( or 6 eggs, well-beaten)

    Method:

    1. Saute the onion until soft and golden.


    2. Wash and chop your sprouts into 2 or 3 inch lengths.


    3. In a bowl, combine 1 cup egg whites with 3 whole eggs.
    Add the cooked onions and the chopped bean sprouts to the bowl and stir well to combine. Add in any other variations from below that you desire.

    4. Once all your ingredients are combined, get your non-stick pan nice and hot over a medium-high heat. Use a little cooking spray and a touch of oil in the pan to achieve patties that are light and not greasy.


    5. Stir egg mixture just before cooking and, using a ladle, scoop out 1/3 cup and add to your hot pan. I use a rubber heat-tolerant spatula to “tame” the egg and keep the structure patty-like as it cooks.


    6. Watch for the egg to cook and, if using raw shrimp, for the shrimp to turn slightly pink. Then it’s time to flip, for which I use the other kind of spatula, AKA the pancake turner.


    7. The patties cook just a couple minutes more, until the egg is set and, if applicable, the shrimp are cooked. The plate up and enjoy!

    Variations:
    • ½- 1 cup of vegetables like chopped or shredded carrots, peas, celery, spinach, peppers or other favorites, like water chestnuts or bamboo shoots
    • ½ pound of raw peeled shrimp, which will cook in the same time it takes to make your patties
    • 1/2 pound of left-over, pre-cooked ground beef, pork, chicken.
    • small chunks of tofu

    Sauce
    We don’t care for the gravy sometimes served with Egg Foo Yung at many Chinese restaurants in the US. Instead we mix equal amounts of soy sauce, mirin, and rice wine vinegar to make a thin sauce that’s also good for dipping dumplings. Soy sauce alone also works for us.

    We sometimes get out of the habit of sprouting seeds. Getting back on track with sprouting beans is very easy however, and I’m going to start some today! Sprouting seeds is an easy and fun way to eat something fresh and homegrown, even in winter.

    Posted in • Cooking, • Growing.

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